Who is Wu Luo, the shining figure in the wardrobe of National Treasure?
2024-08-15
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In the recently concluded fourth season of CCTV's National Treasure, the carefully tailored costumes left a deep impression on the audience, many of which were fabrics restored by Zhu Liqun's team, the inheritor of Suzhou Wu Luo weaving skills. In the creative program "Nian Jin" on CCTV's Spring Festival Gala this year, the Hanfu Luo fabrics worn by Liu Shishi and Li Qin were also specially customized by Zhu Liqun's team.
In the fourth season of "National Treasure", the costumes are constantly highlighted, and only careful reading can reveal the ingenuity behind them. Zhang Xincheng wore a restored yellow-ground longevity pattern yarn from the Qing Dynasty in the collection of the China National Silk Museum; Xu Kai wore a stone-blue casual gown, and the fabric he wore was a two-warp twisted Luo fabric custom-woven and dyed by Uncle Zhu's team, and the pattern was derived from the Qing Dynasty cloud pattern dark flower satin in the collection of the National Silk Museum. Chen Duling's two sets of Song Dynasty Hanfu are mainly made of restored patterns unearthed from the tomb of Huang Sheng in the Song Dynasty. Among them, the lavender peony on the pleated skirt was inspired by the dark smoke-colored peony flower Luo vest unearthed from the tomb of Huang Sheng in the Southern Song Dynasty in Fuzhou, which is now in the collection of the Fujian Provincial Museum. When the peony is in full bloom, it is layered and staggered, delicate but not charming, gorgeous but not vulgar, pleasing to the eye and pleasing to the heart. The head of Zhu Liqun's team told reporters that the style of the two sets of clothing not only reflects the strong plasticity of Luo fabric color and matching, but also gives more inspiration and enlightenment to modern clothing makeup. I hope that through the broadcast of the program more people will be able to understand the traditional and sophisticated weaving techniques of the Song people and appreciate the infinite charm of Luo fabrics.
The Luo made by Zhu Liqun's team has become more and more well-known, and the beauty of Luo fabric has also added brilliance to many TV programs. However, because the brand is "Suluo", people may confuse it with the intangible cultural heritage "Wu Luo" they inherited. What is the connection between the two? During the interview, Zhu Liqun's team also traced the origin for reporters.
"Silver candlelight in autumn cools the painting screen, and a light silk fan flutters fireflies." In ancient Chinese literary works, silk is often mentioned. It is reported that China is the birthplace of sericulture and silk weaving. As early as the Neolithic Age, our ancestors began to use silk to weave silk. Silk has been the pride of the Chinese since ancient times, and Suzhou is the hometown of silk.
Twisted warp fabrics in ancient China are generally called "Luo". They are a type of silk fabric in which the warp threads are twisted and interwoven with the weft threads to form twisted holes. They are light in texture and elegant in style. Together with the finest plain warp fabrics, they are called "silk and satin", representing the highest level of ancient Chinese silk fabrics. In the eyes of the ancients, Luo is also the most poetic and humanistic aesthetic symbol among all kinds of silk fabrics. Suzhou is located on the shore of Taihu Lake, with thousands of miles of fertile land and mulberry trees everywhere. It has a long history of weaving Luo, which is known as "Wu Luo" in history. The twisted fabrics unearthed from the Caoxieshan site in Suzhou more than 6,000 years ago are enough to prove the profound craftsmanship tradition of Wu Luo. "Wu Luo", a category of Suzhou intangible cultural heritage handicrafts, refers to Luo made in Suzhou.
"Wu Yue Chun Qiu" records that "I wish to embroider three more pieces of Luo". Luo weaving was popular in the Han and Tang Dynasties. The Great Tang Dynasty Map proves that Duan Luo became a famous tribute fabric in Suzhou in the Tang Dynasty. Luo weaving skills were further improved in the Song Dynasty. "Neng Gai Zhai Man Lu" written by Wu Zeng in the Southern Song Dynasty recorded that "Wu Luo Hu Ling was brought to the government". The four-warp twisted Luo unearthed from the tower of Ruiguang Temple in Suzhou is enough to show the superb level of Wu Luo craftsmanship in the Song Dynasty. Wu Luo weaving skills reached a higher level in the Ming and Qing Dynasties, and were praised as "Wu Luo Wu Li Cai". There are as many as 55 varieties of flower Luo recorded in Tianshui Bingshanlu. In the Ming and Qing Dynasties, Suzhou Weaving House wove a large number of Wu Luo materials for the imperial silk products woven for the court every year. "Half of the northeast city, the sound of looms in thousands of households". In the thousands of years of inheritance and development, Wu Luo has formed a rich and unique weaving skill system based on the complete inheritance of Luo weaving skills of successive dynasties and relying on Suzhou's unique natural and cultural environment.
However, many ancient weaving techniques have been lost over time. Zhu Liqun was born in 1958. In the 1970s, after graduating from high school, he was assigned to the former Wuxian Silk Weaving Factory No. 2 in Suzhou City, where he worked for more than 20 years. In order to recover the exquisite craftsmanship of ancient Chinese silk weaving, in 1996, Zhu Liqun, who had accumulated rich experience and technology, founded Suzhou Jinda Silk Co., Ltd., set up a technical team to tackle the problem of silk weaving, trial-produced a large number of products, and gradually restored precious silk weaving varieties such as flower silk, embroidered flower silk, and four-warp silk weaving.
In the ancient town of Mudu in Wuzhong District, Suzhou, the products of the self-owned brand "Suluo" created by Zhu Liqun's team are welcomed by many consumers at home and abroad. In 2015, it participated in the China International Silk Expo for the first time and won the gold medal in the spring and summer group of the China Four Seasons Silk Fabric Innovation Design Competition that year. He also spent three years to restore the "Pressed Gold Cloud and Cloud Pattern Xiapei" fabric production process found in unearthed cultural relics, and systematically summarized this lost four-warp chain Luo technique, establishing an important milestone in the history of my country's Luo weaving technology. It should be noted that since 2013, Jinda Silk has registered "Suluo" as a brand trademark, and there was no "Suluo" variety before.
Yangtze Evening News/Ziniu News reporter Zhang Nan
Proofread by Tao Shangong
