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Interface News Reporter | Chen Qirui

Interface News Editor | Xu Yue

French fashion mediaGlitz.parisRecently reported, designer brandsJacquemusDue to financial difficulties, the stores originally planned to be opened in Los Angeles and Miami in the United States may be cancelled, and the opening time of the London store will also be postponed.

But in Paris,JacquemusThe sales of the Avenue Montaigne flagship store are higher than those of nearby luxury brands such as Balenciaga and Saint Laurent, mainly due to its300The average price of the Euro (about RMB2348The report also said that the brand founderSimon Porte JacquemusRefuse to open investment to large groups.

at presentJacquemusNo response has been made to the report yet.

Popular in recent yearsJacquemusIn fact, it has been established15Before establishing a permanent image with its southern French style,Simon Porte JacquemusMinimalist, color-blocked and geometric designs have been tried, but none of them have received as much exposure as the relaxed southern French style.2018His signature look was enhanced by loose-fitting tunics and exaggerated wide-brimmed hats in the Spring/Summer and Fall/Winter collections.

Gucci Creative DirectorAlessandro MicheleLeading the maximalist trend in the fashion industry,Demna GvasaliaandVirgil AblohFoundedVetementsandOff-WhiteIt represents streetism.JacquemusProviding freshness to consumers and fashion media at the time, this madeSimon Porte JacquemusA turning point in his career soon arrived.

As a small-scale designer brand,JacquemusIt was difficult to compete with large brands in fashion shows, celebrity marketing and channel expansion, but it was lucky enough to catch the mini bag trend at the time.Le ChiquitoThe handbags quickly became2018Year and2019YearIt Bag,andSimon Porte JacquemusContinuously shrinking it to a size that can only accommodate a credit card continues to provide gimmicks and popularity.

butJacquemusDid notGanniorZimmermannLike other designer brands, it quickly expanded globally after becoming popular. According to its official website, it currently only has5standalone stores, three in France, one in Dubai, and5There are 3 counters in department stores, but all of them are located in France.

From the perspective of channel expansion,JacquemusObviously not fast.JacquemusIt has been disclosed that about40%From direct sales channels,60%From wholesale channels. In China, it is mainly throughI.T, Lane Crawford and other boutiques andNet-a-PorterandFarfetchAnd other e-commerce platforms for sales.

butJacquemusAnd we make up for the shortcomings in channels through marketing.

In addition to marketing the mini handbags,JacquemusThe virtual digital marketing and cooperation with Nike have brought it popularity. Unlike many designer brand founders who are not good at“Make trouble”style,Simon Porte JacquemusandJennie、Victoria BeckhamShe maintains close ties with celebrities such as Jean-Claude Laure and is keen on holding traveling shows outside of Paris.

arrive2022Year,JacquemusThe annual income is about2.2100 million euros. In comparison,Thom Browneexist2022The annual income is3.31100 million euros, and theLOEWEIt only rose to6.3100 million euros.Simon Porte JacquemusHis operational capabilities also attracted market attention, and there were even rumors that he would serve as Givenchy's creative director.

But nowJacquemusThe news of weak revenue is not surprising.

exist2018Year,2019After briefly refreshing the industry with several southern French-style collections,Simon Porte JacquemusThe designs quickly became repetitive. On social media, mediocrity, blandness and rehashing are the evaluations of its recent creations, along with the poor quality of the finished garments.

After the mini handbag trend has passed,JacquemusFailed to produce a relayLe ChiquitoThe hot-selling handbags. Nowadays, the marketing heat comes from celebrities, show settings and joint brands with Nike. But the problem is that the heat of shows and celebrities dissipates quickly, virtual digital marketing has become rampant, and Nike still benefits the most from the joint brands with Nike.JacquemusIt's just one of many partners.

Not to mention that in the context of the cooling of the global luxury industry, a large number of second-tier luxury brands and designer brands have been quickly abandoned by consumers.JacquemusThe product is not very classic and has low value retention, but it used to attract attention because of its popularity; but now it is obviously no longer a top-tier product, and consumers naturally have reasonable reasons to forget it.

andJacquemusThe internal management of the company may also be insufficient. First of all,Jacquemusexist2022Year AppointmentBastien DaguzanAs CEO, he left the company a year later.JacquemusThe company is still facing revenue difficulties even though it has limited directly-operated stores and its Paris Montaigne flagship store’s sales far exceed those of neighboring brands. Perhaps there is a problem with the operation of the wholesale channel.

Donor“Make trouble”、“Generate traffic”、“Create a hit”Once upon a timeJacquemusDifferentiating itself from other designer brands, the move to increase traffic has now also brought challenges to the brand.——It lacks the craftsmanship and core cultural values ​​that many designer brands consider to be the most important, although these brands often end up with low production, a small audience and ultimately poor sales.

In the context of designer brands generally facing business difficulties, it is difficult to sayJacquemusThe measures taken in the past may be right or wrong. But at least one thing is certain.JacquemusThe opportunity to further consolidate the image through channel expansion and enriching product category portfolio has been missed.

The cooling of high-end consumption has increased the pressure on brand revenue. Now is not a good time for brands to expand and open stores.JacquemusThis is especially true for this type of designer brand. As it gradually retreats from the top of the industry, the resistance to driving other categories such as ready-to-wear and shoes through measures such as popular handbags and fashion shows will become increasingly greater.