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recently, i watched a chinese drama that impressed me.

there are no traffic stars, no promotion and no hot spots.

but douban's score soared to 8.5.

it has become one of the highest scoring domestic dramas in recent times.

the spectacular and shocking thing about this drama is that——

it's not just a few strange cases that make people feel curious.

instead, it integrates the historical culture of the hexi corridor into the plot.

real cultural relics are quoted, and traditional culture and the history of the ancient city are integrated into the plot and story.

personally, i think it is exactly the same as "black goku", but it is more popular than the game.

for us, it is a true traditional renaissance.

the first story, the mural of subduing demons, comes from mogao grottoes;

the second story, dugu xin's coal-stone multi-sided seal, is now in the shaanxi history museum;

the third story is the tongue relic of kumarajiva, which is also preserved in the kumarajiva temple in liangzhou, wuwei, gansu.

what i want to talk about today,

it's in this third story.wuwei, liangzhou.

the liangzhou in wang zhihuan’s “liangzhou ci”.

it is called hanzhou in the drama.

our good friendsqi dongi went there recently.

be shocked and be amazed.

then he wrote eloquently about his shocking journey in this small northwestern city.

netizens couldn't sit still anymore and started joking -

gansu wuwei cultural tourism, this ancient capital of six dynasties,

aren't you guys moving yet?

it has been many years since i said goodbye to "lanzhou, which always leaves in the early morning".

this time, the target was directly aimed at liangzhou.

the train passed over wushaoling mountain and passed by the beacon tower that had been silent for hundreds of years.

on a sunny august day, i threw myself into the arms of yin wuwei.

when i unloaded my luggage at the hotel and stood in front of the bright panoramic floor-to-ceiling window——

wow, what a magnificent “main hall”!

along with the majestic temple,

there are also a bunch of clean and bright modern buildings.

this "unity of opposites" reflects the diversity of beauty, making liangzhou present a concrete and three-dimensional beauty in front of my eyes.

it’s as if one can see through thousands of years at a glance, melting the past into the present.

open the map and you will find that the temple just a stone's throw away from the hotel is the famouskumarajiva temple。

i searched for him among the crowd for hundreds of times, and when i turned around, i found that the great man was right beside me.

in this case, why not take luoshi temple as the starting point?

how about a half-day "city walk" tour that passes through dayun temple, confucian temple, western xia museum and south city gate tower?

this way you can explore ancient sites and also relax and keep fit. isn’t that great?

change clothes quickly and go downstairs.

a bowl of beef noodles at noon can fill your stomach.

the prices in lanzhou are already quite shocking, and the prices here are even cheaper than in lanzhou.

for only seven yuan, a bowl of freshly-baked "er xi" is already steaming in front of you.

add an egg, 1.5 yuan.

the quality is as good as lanzhou's, and the satisfaction is beyond words.

who would have thought that a mere bowl of beef noodles could make me fall in love with a city?

okay, let’s begin our journey to liangzhou.

kumarajiva temple

in 382, ​​fu jian of the former qin dynasty sent his general lu guang to attack qiuci.

this fu jian was the same fu jian who was beaten badly by xie an of the eastern jin dynasty in the battle of feishui.

he fought this war not for the purpose of plundering territory, but for the famedwestern regions monk——kumarajiva.

under the coercion of lu guang, luoshu was not only taken to liangzhou, but also married and drank alcohol, and "observed the double precepts of the bodhisattva."

later, lü guang established houliang and built a temple for luoshu to appease him, which is today's kumarajiva temple.

lu guang was indeed not a good person and he did things in a simple and rough manner, but objectively speaking, his "house arrest" of kumarajiva also created a whole new eminent monk.

not only did kumarajiva learn the chinese language, he also became the first person in the history of chinese buddhism to truly use chinese to spread buddhist scriptures.

from preaching in liangzhou to becoming a national teacher in chang'an, kumarajiva, who lived in china for decades, not only achieved the highest achievement in his personal buddhist career.

he also translated many obscure sanskrit scriptures that were as difficult to understand as heavenly books into chinese.

this enabled buddhism to spread even more rapidly.

therefore, when later generations lamented the "four hundred and eighty temples of the southern dynasties",

have you ever recited luoshu while looking at the smoke-filled tower?

in 409 ad, kumarajiva passed away.

"the firewood is burned out and the body is shattered, only the tongue remains intact."

the people of liangzhou built the rāshtra pagoda and buried the tongue relic under the pagoda.

at this moment, i am looking up at the pagoda that rises into the sky.

imagine the priceless "tongue relic", does it really exist, or is it just a legend?

from an emotional perspective, i certainly hope this is true.

however, intellectually, kumarajiva's vow before his death, "if the scriptures i translate are correct, my brahma body and tongue will not decay after my death," seems too supernatural.

shortly after visiting luoshi pagoda, i followed the protagonists back to liangzhou in a popular tv series "strange stories of the tang dynasty: journey to the west".

the hanzhou in the play is obviously a reference to liangzhou.

the prototype of hui'an temple, which enshrines the master's tongue relics, should be kumarajiva temple.

when a familiar yet unfamiliar scene comes, this reunion across time and space still brings tears to one's eyes.

suddenly, the problem that has troubled me for many days has a new interpretation:

it doesn't matter what the answer is.

regardless of whether it is true or not, the "tongue relics" has long been passed down through the ages and has become a legend of liangzhou city and even a spiritual totem of the chinese nation.

it has long completed the transformation from tangible to intangible.

dayun temple

in 1927, a magnitude 7.6 earthquake occurred in wuwei area, with its epicenter located in today's gulang county.

the earthquake not only destroyed the luoshu temple pagoda, which had been rebuilt many times, but also destroyed the dayun temple, which was built in the eastern jin dynasty.

in some old photos left over from the republic of china period, two clearly identifiable twin towers can be found.

obviously, they also failed to survive this tragic earthquake.

fortunately, the ancient bell tower became the only "survivor" of dayun temple.

it stood firm amidst landslides and earthquakes, and has survived safely to this day, composing an immortal legend.

the weathered bell is said to have been built in the tang dynasty.

some people also firmly believe that the bell had been cast when zhang tianxi built "hongzang temple" (the original name of dayun temple).

climb to the top of the bell tower, and you can get up close and personal with antiquities from thousands of years ago. you can even touch the patterns of flying apsaras and heavenly kings (strongly not recommended) and feel the echoes of history.

looking over the railing, above the ochre-yellow wall of jia tan’s former residence is a former soviet-style building that has just been painted pink.

it glowed against the azure sky, making the west's largest ferris wheel behind it look unreal and seem like a toy.

this is liangzhou today, which is no different from other city-states in the world that are dressed in modern clothes.

but history always seeps into a person's heart inadvertently like air.

if possible, the bell tower of dayun temple would be my “place of peace”.

i can do nothing but stand there and stare blankly, letting the wind blowing in late summer gently take away all the melancholy.

i just feel refreshed and light.

if it were placed in megacities like beijing, shanghai and guangzhou, it would be given a slightly fashionable adjective like "relaxed".

so i decided to do an experiment: i took out a bottle of freeze-dried coffee from my bag and poured it into a cup of water.

i want to have afternoon tea with the ancient clock tower at the best moment of the day.

this is just an ordinary cup of coffee, but with the blessing of the ancient clock tower, everything becomes special.

it is different from checking in at the internet-famous coffee shops in beijing, shanghai and guangzhou, and it is also different from eating coffee with your hands and drinking sanpaotai in lanzhou. it combines not only coffee liquid but also the dust of history.

besides, the wind never lies.

the summer in the northwest is a combination of gentleness and brutality.

the sun burns your skin like a laser, but as long as you stand in the shade, a beautiful world is at your fingertips.

wuwei confucian temple

at four o'clock in the afternoon, i moved to wuwei confucian temple.

compared with the deserted dayun temple, it seems that tourists can pass by in every corner of the confucian temple.

next to zhuangyuan bridge, there was a boy about ten years old, wearing a white hanfu, reciting ancient poems with great emotion.

as far as the eye can see, a woman is holding up her cell phone, filming and scolding.

"stop, you forgot again? try again!"

"why don't you learn from your mistakes?"

“how many times have you taken the photo?”

the child was so anxious that he was scratching his ears and cheeks, but his mother had no intention of stopping him.

i wonder what this boy would think when he recalls that afternoon when he recited poems in the wuwei confucian temple many years later.

xixia museum

across the street from the confucian temple is the western xia museum.

the museum is not big, but it displays a real "treasure of the museum", which is the "inscription on the reconstruction of the gantong pagoda of the huguo temple", also known as the "western xia stele".

in 1804, scholar zhang shu returned home due to illness.

one day when i was visiting dayun temple, i accidentally found a sealed black stone tablet. the densely packed characters looked like chinese characters, but they were completely different.

this accidental encounter aroused zhang shu's curiosity.

after some research, zhang shu discovered that these characters were actually the long-lost xixia language.

if a stone tablet is discovered by a farmer working in the fields, it is just a stone tablet.

fortunately, the person who discovered it was not just a scholar, but also a famous writer and historian.

zhang shu then devoted himself to studying xixia characters and history, and made a once glorious but forgotten civilization known to the world.

like scattered fragments slowly pieced together.

this is liangzhou.

during the western xia dynasty, when the tanguts were proud of their movable type printing and ironmaking techniques, liangzhou was an auxiliary prefecture second only to xingzhou (yinchuan).

the dayun temple where the western xia stele was unearthed was named huguo temple, demonstrating its extraordinary noble status.

but this was not the most glorious moment for the city of liangzhou.

many people don’t know that it was once the capital of former liang, later liang, northern liang, daliang, and hunmo.

although it is not as prominent as nanjing, it is also an authentic ancient capital of the six dynasties.

its low-key and forbearing temperament reminds people of a liangzhou man during the three kingdoms period.

jia xu and jia wenhe.

jia xu once assisted zhang xiu and killed cao cao's favorite general dian wei, eldest son cao ang and nephew cao anmin in the battle of wancheng, which gave cao cao an unforgettable humiliation in his military career.

however, after surrendering to cao cao, he took the initiative to hide his edge and chose a more long-term strategy of self-preservation.

compared with xun yu, who was ruthlessly executed in his later years, he at least lived to a ripe old age.

but in that cynical age, we always prefer more eye-catching "youngsters" like ma mengqi.

i know there must be people who, like me, started playing a fc game called "overlord's continent" in their youth.

i know it for the first timeliangzhou.

it was the most remote city on the game map, a desolate city.

except for ma teng and han sui, there was no one else.

it is also like the lines in wang zhihuan's "liangzhou ci" -

"a lonely city among the mountains."

but i still chose to start with the weak "ma family army" countless times.

just because of three or four years of sleeping on straw and eating bitter food, heroes like ma chao, pang de and ma dai emerged in liangzhou city.

the xiliang legion at that time was an invincible force of iron and steel.

so, this is why i wrote this article after the walk.

go to liangzhou, don’t look down on the young and poor.

you have to go there in an era as prosperous as "jin ma chao" and not leave any regrets.

otherwise, you will end up like me, with a big belly at the age of master dong.

finally, here are some liangzhou strategies

recommended one-day tour routes:

in the morning, visit haizang park, haizang temple, wuwei museum and leitai han tomb.

in the afternoon, visit kumarajiva temple - dayun temple - wuwei mosque - wuwei confucian temple - xixia museum - south city gate tower

haizang temple

it is a national key cultural relic protection site, one of the best-preserved ancient temples in gansu, and is known as the "crown of buddhist temples in the northwest."

wuwei museum

a national first-class museum, located at no. 25, guzang road, xuanwu street, liangzhou district, gansu province.

leitai han tomb

the tombs from the late eastern han dynasty to the wei and jin dynasties are national key cultural relics protection sites.

you can see the "bronze galloping horse" produced by china in many train stations and squares across the country.

tianti mountain grottoes

excavated during the northern liang dynasty, it is the oldest existing cave in china and is known as the "ancestor of chinese caves."

binggou river scenic area

at the binghegou scenic area at the foot of the qilian mountains, you can enjoy the beautiful scenery of snow-capped mountains, forests, grasslands and lakes at the same time.

if you’ve had enough of history, why not go to nature to refresh your eyes?

food recommendation——

liangzhou troika

xing noodles + braised pork + fu tea = liangzhou trifecta, very suitable for one person.

for a price of just over 30 yuan, you can have a full meal.

also,wuwei noodlesmust try.

it has its own unique taste, and it is recommended that every tourist should try it, because it is a hometown delicacy that all liangzhou people who are wandering away will miss.