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Why do young people fall in love with the "new Chinese" aesthetics (New Language)

2024-08-21

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At the Paris Olympics, 18-year-old freestyle BMX athlete Deng Yawen wore a hairpin after winning the gold medal, showing the world the beauty of the East; young people wearing Hanfu, walking on city streets and tourist attractions, became a landscape; traditional clothing elements appeared on professional stages such as China International Fashion Week and Shanghai Fashion Week, frequently attracting attention. In recent years, the "new Chinese style" aesthetics represented by traditional Chinese clothing has become popular, especially favored by the younger generation.

Throughout the history of Chinese civilization, clothing is not only an important part of material civilization, but also a concentrated reflection of social culture. China's clothing system took shape in the Zhou Dynasty, and has been changing and developing as a materialized form of "ritual and music culture" since the Han Dynasty. China's clothing throughout the dynasties contains the humanistic concept of harmony between man and nature, imitating the heaven and following the earth, and is also a reflection of social life in different historical periods. From the simplicity and simplicity of the Qin and Han Dynasties to the luxury and elegance of the Tang Dynasty, from the elegance and refinement of the Song Dynasty to the complex beauty of the Qing Dynasty, a Chinese clothing culture system that is inclusive and beautiful in its own way has been formed, and has radiated and influenced many neighboring countries.

With the development of my country's economy and society, the cultural confidence of the younger generation is becoming stronger. They actively embrace the "new Chinese style" aesthetics and convey cultural identity and cultural awareness to each other in various online and offline scenarios. According to statistics, the topic of "new Chinese style dressing" has been played more than 10 billion times on a certain short video platform.

A post-90s girl designed a Chinese aerospace-themed Hanfu series, showing her imagination of "hardcore romance"; professional designers installed zippers on horse-faced skirts to better integrate traditional clothing into modern life... Traditional clothing with profound cultural connotations has become more dazzling through the innovation and creation of Generation Z, and has attracted more and more attention from the world. I once held a Hanfu-themed lecture at the European Institute of Design. Chinese students wearing traditional costumes became the focus of the audience, arousing the curiosity and interest of European students.

The attention and cognition of "new Chinese style" aesthetics have gradually expanded from the surface to the inside, and moved towards the in-depth exploration of materials, details, and history. In terms of style, it not only focuses on preserving the common characteristics of Chinese aesthetics, but also focuses on the contemporary presentation of traditional aesthetics, rooted in "Chinese" and seeking "new" in shape; in terms of style and shape, designers not only focus on learning from and transforming traditional Chinese styles, but also focus on combining and transforming local shapes such as stand-up collars, slanted lapels, sleeves, and cloth buttons with international trends, and cleverly using the characteristic elements of national costumes; in terms of materials, colors, and patterns, not only traditional silk varieties such as Song brocade and Xiangyunsha are used, but also Chinese characteristic patterns are used to make traditional beauty a new trend of national style.

Chinese culture is both national and global. We hope that traditional costumes with profound cultural heritage will shine in the new era through the innovation and creation of Generation Z, and tell more wonderful Chinese stories to the world.

Reprinted from: People's Daily (August 16, 2024, 10th edition) The author is a professor at Donghua University and vice chairman of the China Fashion Designers Association
Bian Xiangyang
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